Original article                                                                                                UDC: 615.262.015.11
                                                                                                          doi:10.5633/amm.2015.0105

 

  

NEW NATURAL SUGAR-BASED SURFACTANTS INTENDED FOR STABILIZATION OF COSMETIC/DERMOPHARMACEUTICAL
VEHICLES – SAFETY AND EFFICACY ASSESSMENT

 Marija Tasić-Kostov¹, Snežana Savić²

 University of Niš, Faculty of Medicine, Department of Pharmacy, Niš, Serbia¹
University of Belgrade, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology,
Belgrade, Serbia²

                        Contact: Marija Tasić-Kostov,
                        Blvd.81. dr Zoran Đinđić,
                        Faculty of Medicine,Niš, Serbia
                        marijatk@medfak.ni.ac.rs

 

 

Despite a large number of different vehicles available nowadays, conventional emulsion systems remain one of the most commonly used for cosmetic and dermatological preparations. Popularly labelled as skin- and environmentally-friendly, alkyl polyglucoside (APG) sugar-based emulsifiers have attracted considerable interest with regard to their dermatological properties, since irritation potential of commonly used emulsifiers could affect the functionality and safety of dermopharmaceutics. The aim of this study was to promote the emulsion based on C16/18 APG as a prospective vehicle for topical drugs and cosmetic actives assessing the safety for use and skin hydration capacity. In accordance with the requirements of newer legislation in vitro, acute skin irritation test was performed using cytotoxicity assay on artificial skin. The results were compared with in vivo data obtained by measuring the skin biophysical parameters, such as: stratum corneum hydration (SCH), erythema index (EI), and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Parameters were measured prior to (baseline values) and upon cessation of a 24-h occlusive treatment  in 14 healthy human volunteers. In vivo moisturizing capacity of the emulsions was assessed in 16 healthy volunteers in a long-term trial measuring of SCH.

This study showed, investigating the most frequently used APG, that emulsions based on these emulsifiers could probably be promoted as safe cosmetic/ dermopharmaceutical vehicles. Prospective safety for human use with the correlation between in vivo and in vitro findings was shown. In addition, the investigated vehicle per se showed an excellent skin moisturizing capacity which is essential in maintaining healthy skin, but also in improving dermatitis, which follows most pathological skin conditions. Acta Medica Medianae 2014;54(1): 34-39.

 

Key words: emulsifiers, alkyl polyglucosides, dermatological preparations, cosmetics, in vivo/in vitro skin safety and efficacy, biophysical skin parameters, skin hydration potential